We are on the move!

We're on the move!

Dear friends,

Exciting news to share with you – we’ve packed up and moved into a cozy new blog space, and we want you to come check it out!

Visit our new home at http://29palmsinn.com/blog.php 

You’ll find news about fun upcoming events at the 29 Palms Inn and in the community, hiking guides to Joshua Tree National Park, history of the Inn and the Oasis of Mara and, of course, desert stories by Pat Flanagan!

We thank you for following us over the past few years and hope you stay with us! Check out the new blog and tell us what you think – you can add comments and share posts easily.


The 29 Palms Inn team

Bird Alert!

Rufous-backed Robin

Rufous-backed Robin spotted at the 29 Palms Inn, Oct 25th 2014
Photo Credit Tom Benson

Rufous-backed Robin sighting at the 29 Palms Inn ~ Reported by Tom Benson of San Bernardino, California 

“After I had made a loop around the property, I found a female-type Summer Tanager drinking at the north edge of the lagoon, but she flew up at my approach. I worked my way around to the northwest corner, looking out over the north part of the lagoon trying to refind her, when a Rufous-backed Robin landed in the small willow on the northeast corner of the lagoon. It quickly disappeared, but soon returned to the edge of the lagoon several more times to drink, and then settled into one of the palms foraging on the palm fruit for the next hour and a half. While I was keeping tabs on the robin for inbound birders, a female-type Painted Bunting flew in and landed 15 feet in front of me in the same small willow, but after 30 seconds or a minute, made its way out the back of the willow and out of sight. I got off a few identifiable shots of the bunting before it disappeared, but it was not seen again as of 2 PM when I left. After birders started to arrive at noon, the Rufous-backed Robin became more skittish and was lost and re-found several times as it flew all around the property. A Purple Finch and a late Western Tanager at the inn were also noteworthy.”

To read Tom’s full account visit The Birding List Digest: http://digest.sialia.com/?rm=message;id=937018

All images are copyright of Tom Benson 

Rufous-backed Robin spotted at 29 Palms Inn by Tom Benson

Rufous-backed Robin. Photo Credit Tom Benson

Rufous-backed Robin

Rufous-backed Robin. Photo Credit Tom Benson 

Rufous-backed Robin

Rufous-backed Robin. Photo Credit Tom Benson 

Notes from Pat Flanagan

One place the robin has been seen is on the lawn foraging with American Robins for dates from the Washingtonian fan palm. If the robin isn’t posing for a calendar shot, a quick way to distinguish it from the American Robin is the lack of a white eye ring and the vivid black streaks on the throat.

I’d like to thank Tom and all our visitors for sharing these incredible findings, and encourage everyone to continue to record these sightings at the eBird website (http://ebird.org/content/ebird/)

The 29 Palms Inn welcomes birders and is offering a special hotel rate for mid-week reservations. Enter the coupon code Birding while reserving your room online at www.29palmsinn.com or mention this special over the phone (760) 367-3505. Special rate valid Oct 27th – Nov 13th, 2014 (Sunday – Thursday)

What’s that strange plant in the garden?

Proboscidea Parviflora - Devil’s Claw

Proboscidea Parviflora – Devil’s Claw

One of the strangest plants growing in the garden at the 29 Palms Inn is the Devil’s Claw. It is a summer monsoon plant with large sticky leaves, white flowers with pink veins, and the odd mature fruit illustrated above. Look for the fruit hanging from the fence on the oasis side of the garden.

Devil’s Claw was introduced here by Jane Smith, owner of the 29 Palms Inn, at the request of a basket maker she met in southern Arizona. Jane was asked to plant the seeds in her garden and then return the fruits to the basket makers. When Jane accepted this charge she was becoming part of an agricultural tradition that goes back many years. Black fibers from the Devil’s Claw are used by Southwestern Indians in basket weaving. Their main basket material is the white fiber from yucca plants but long ago it was discovered that if some of the black fibers from Devil’s Claw were woven into the basket bottom it would be stronger and last longer. The dark fibers are also used to make the designs in the baskets.

The wild species of Devil’s Claw has a shorter claw. It was thought that as the Indian women started to sell more and more of their baskets it became necessary to cultivate Devil’s Claw to supplement the wild supply.  So, this is possibly a recent domestication.  Or, maybe not.  A cache of the white seeds was found associated with charcoal dated at A.D. 1670. In any event, as the women began selecting which seeds to plant in their gardens they naturally chose from those individuals that would provide the longest and strongest fibers. Over time they created the long clawed variety shown above. Only in 1942 was it reported in the literature that the wild type has black seeds and the domestic type white seeds. Jane was given white seeds to plant.  As an aside, Jane’s father, Doc, planted the wild black-seeded variety when she was a child, preparing her for this domestic introduction.

This is such a strange fruit you might wonder what it is designed for. Not for today would be the first answer. The claws are designed to encircle the legs of the large four-legged animals that roamed the grasslands during the Pleistocene epoch. Their hooves would disturb the soil as they walk, leaving a nice furrow for the seeds to drop into.

Proboscidea parviflora ~ Devil's claw

Proboscidea parviflora ~ Devil’s claw


~ Pat Flanagan

The Desert Smells Like Rain

The Papago Indians called it, and we echo their thoughts — the desert smells like rain. Even as the humidity rises before the rain, that special smell permeates the air, our nostrils flare, and we can feel the softness of a smile move up into our eyes as our lungs expand to take in a deep draught of air. Where, but the desert, is the gift of rain more gladly welcomed or more richly heralded?

Where does that smell come from? From our most common and, some feel, one of our most beautiful desert shrubs, the creosote bush, Larrea tridentata. The creosote originated in Argentina and invaded North American during the formation of our deserts sometime between 10,000 and 14,000 years ago. How it got here has been long debated but a good guess might include a ride in the tail feathers of migrating plovers. A sticky resin covers the stems and evergreen leaves. When activated by moisture it’s smell resembles the acrid petrochemical product used to preserve wood.

Creosote Bush

Creosote Bush

It is not unusual to ignore the common things living around us. Since the creosote is the commonest plant in our hot western deserts, it is often overlooked. This is a mistake since its success is based on a number of extraordinary abilities, not the least of which is its ability to go without water for long periods. Part of its secret is the resin which protects the leaves from ultraviolet radiation, reduces water loss, and poisons or repels most microbes and planteating animals. Because of its extensive root system the creosote is able to monopolize soil nutrients, preventing grasses and other plants from taking hold. Its taproot is able to grow 15 feet into the soil and the lateral roots, which also contain chemicals that discourage neighbors, can reach into more than 50 square yards of surface soil.

It would seem that few plants stand a chance against this aggressive invader, but that idea needs a closer examination. Creosote may be the only shrub growing in certain dry areas but in situations where water is not so limiting, such as on alluvial fans, they are abundant and hospitably share their resources.

Researchers Jack Schultz and Ted Floyd found that “many, including the saguaro cactus, begin life in the shade of a creosote plant “nurse bush.” Side-blotched lizards, desert iguanas, snakes, toads, and termites burrow beneath the shrub, and the chuckwalla feeds on its flowers and fruits. Ten or twelve species of small mammals depend on it for food, nesting sites, and refuge from the elements. Kangaroo rats consume its seeds, and jackrabbits prune its branches. Local birds, such as the verdin, black-throated sparrow, and black gnatcatcher, as well as scores of migratory visitors frequent the bush for seeds and insects. Generations of Native Americans have used the extracts of creosote bush as antiseptics and treatments for arthritis and rattlesnake bites. Its resin was once used to waterproof baskets and fix arrowheads to shafts. Today, some of the resin’s more than fifty components are thought to be effective in shrinking cancerous tumors, others are consumed as dietary antioxidants or used as food preservatives.”

Creosote Bushes in Bloom

Creosote Bushes in Bloom


~ Pat Flanagan


This is about the guest that came and stayed

Delores, the kingsnake

Delores, the kingsnake

This is about the guest that came and stayed; her room is comped and meals are provided (although she has to serve herself). During this warm season she is out in the evening hours, flicking her tongue, tasting the air, looking this way and that, and in the most relaxed manner possible, maintaining her vigilance to rapidly grab and squeeze. Her name is Delores.

We think her main daytime residence is beneath Faultline cabin. When hungry she comes out in search of rodents, other reptiles, birds, and amphibians. She is a powerful constrictor and kills by suffocation. She endears herself to humans because her kind is known to eat rattlesnakes.

Kingsnakes are found throughout the United States. The California kingsnake, Lampropeltis getulus californiae, is our desert subspecies and a member of the Colubridae, the largest snake family in the world, containing 70% of all species. Truth be told, we do not know if Delores is a female or male but the name seems to fit her quiet ways. Delores will hibernate over the winter but come spring we will, hopefully, catch some mating action and learn her sex for sure. Male kingsnakes compete for females and when two are in the same area they will raise their heads, necks, and the fore parts of their bodies to entwine. The winning snake presses the loser to the ground. The loser retreats to lie coiled with his head flat on the ground. The victorious male returns to the female and they copulate (taking from minutes to hours). She will lay a clutch of eggs in a protected area. She can lay more than one clutch per season and the eggs in each clutch can be from more than one male.

Neither the female nor the male have parenting duties; the young are independent from the egg stage on. The eggs take about 60 days to hatch and after their first molt, in about 7 days, the juvenile snakes disperse.

How do kingsnakes perceive their world? Snakes communicate with their tongues, which provide both a sense of taste and smell, and with scent gland secretions. Male snakes can find and follow females through those scent secretions. If a snake is threatened it will twist away in alarm and use secretions as a repellant. Kingsnakes, like most other snakes, have excellent vision. Hearing is restricted to sensing vibrations.

Delores, like most of her kind, is gentle. However, and pay attention here, kingsnakes are known to bite when picked up and to secrete a noxious smelly substance when alarmed. That is why we do not know her sex for sure. She appreciates good manners. She is also curious and you may find her spying on you from a protected position.


The California Kingsnake

The California Kingsnake

What’s in a name?

In Greek lampros means shining, brilliant, splendid. Lampropeltis translates to elegant in dress or style. When freshly molted kingsnakes are all of that.

~ Pat Flanagan



The Story of the Fire Dancer

The "Fire Dancer"  Sphinx Moth

The “Fire Dancer” Sphinx Moth

For the earlier dwellers at the Oasis the long winter nights were a time to tell stories. These stories show a keen ability to observe and translate natural phenomena into memorable lessons—in the following case the behavior and yearly appearance and disappearance of certain winged nightlife.

Moth, the Fire Dancer A Piute story

Long ago, Moth had black wings. He was a great dancer as he flew and he loved to dance around people’s fires. The people would watch him as he danced and the young women would laugh as he dove and fluttered and circled. They would try to catch him and dance with him, but he would always escape them.

“Be careful,” his father told him, “do not dance too close to the fire.” But moth did not listen to his father. He liked to dance and flirt with the young women while the fires burned bright. He danced this way all through the spring and the summer.

One night, near the end of summer, Moth came to dance around the fire. The young women laughed as he danced and he danced even harder, coming closer and closer to the flames. He dove down wildly and flapped up again and the young women tried to dance with him.

“You cannot catch me,” he said. “I am Moth. I am the greatest dancer of all!” But as he bragged he flew too close to the flame. The fire caught him and he spun down onto the coals with burned wings. It seemed as if he was dead.

His father had been watching from the shadows. He flew down and carried his son away into the forest. He put medicine on his son’s burned wings and wrapped him up in a gray blanket and hid him in the bushes.

Throughout the winter, the people talked in their lodges about Moth, the dancer. The young women were sad as they thought of how he had been killed by the flames. They would miss his dancing around their fires at night. They would miss playing with him as he dove and circled. At last the winter was gone and the days began to grow longer. One night, not long after the Moon of New Grass, the people sat around a fire late at night. All was quiet when suddenly, out of the night, came the flash of wings.
Then with wings as bright as the red of flames, someone was dancing around the fire, dancing as Moth had danced.

“Who is it?” the people asked.

“He dances the way Moth danced,” said the young women. “Moth has come back, but his wings now are filled with flame!”

And so it was. Wrapped in his gray blanket, Moth’s burns had healed and he had come back to dance once more with the people. But now his wings were no longer black. They were gray as a blanket above and as red as sparkling flames below.

“We can no longer just call him Moth,” the people said. “He must have a new name. We will call him The Fire Dancer.” And that has been his name to this day.


Now is the time for the Fire Dancer, our Sphinx Moth, to be out pollinating the large, white, night-blooming Datura flowers. There is a plan growing against the garden fence. The flowers begin opening around dusk and the moths arrive thereafter to hover while unfurling their long tongues down to drink the nectar. In the process pollen is transferred before a new load is picked up.


Datura Flower

Datura Flower beside garden


~ Pat Flanagan

The Pacific Flyway

Bird sightings in Twentynine Palms

Bird sightings in Twentynine Palms


If you drive east from Los Angeles to visit Joshua Tree National Park or come west from Las Vegas you are crossing the Pacific Flyway. It is a major thoroughfare extending from Alaska to Patagonia and covers the deserts (covers California actually), one of the last great open spaces you can see it. See it? How can you see a flyway, it’s for birds? They travel way up in the sky and the smaller ones fly mostly at night. They have to touch down, sure, but not anyplace I know. Anyway I am not a birder (major form of recreation is looking for birds). Or maybe you are a birder, or just a lover of birds (takes and seeks opportunities to watch birds) but you still don’t know how you are supposed to see birds in such empty vastness, unless by accident.

There’s a way. The mechanism is the interactive website eBird; www.ebird.org. eBird is a citizen-science based bird observation project of the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology. On it you will find datasets from around the globe. Any competent bird watcher is encouraged to submit data. Each location is a ‘hotspot’ supported by one to over a thousand reported checklists. The visualization of the hotspots is displayed on Google maps. Species records including time of year and month by month abundance are in a spreadsheet format.

So, let’s say you are coming out to the 29 Palms Inn for the weekend. You are curious after reading this introduction so you go on line and find the website, click on Explore Data, click on Explore Hotspots, click on Hybrid for maps, type in 29 Palms Inn, click on the balloon and Voila! 96 species, 65 checklists. Click on View details and you will see what, when, and who. You will also notice other hotspot balloons adjacent to the Inn, click on each of those: Oasis of Mara – 58/44 and the Oasis Visitor Center – 89/83. Zoom out and see Lucky Park – 76/34 and Knott Sky Park – 81/50, all in 29 Palms. Getting to the Inn you drove (going east) by the internationally known hotspot Big Morongo Canyon Preserve in Morongo Valley – 228/1088. Stop there.

You don’t have to be a birder to enjoy eBird. Just knowing all those birds are out there busy about their business — finding food, water, shelter, or for some species, a place to build a nest and raise babies — makes your travels richer. You know the desert as alive, not empty.

Check it out. Explore. You could become addicted. You might take up bird watching.[1] You might suggest to bird loving friends that they post their lists. If they already do, take them to dinner in thanks for making the Pacific Flyway visible.

 [1] http://www.bigmorongo.org/a4Edu.htm


~ Pat Flanagan